Ante Up
A weekend in White Sulphur Springs at the Red Ants Pants Festival.
What do women's workwear and the mountainside town of White Sulphur Springs have in common? For those in the know, the answer is obvious. For those still out of the loop, clear your schedules for this year’s Red Ants Pants Music Festival, happening July 25-28. Red Ants Pants has put on this supersized shindig since 2011, and it’s acquired quite the following to say the least. I’d even go as far as calling it a staple Montana festival at this point. During the event, White Sulphur Springs graciously hosts people from all over, as the town floods with folks looking to camp, dance, hear some good tunes, and experience this part of the state in a truly one-of-a-kind way.
If you’re on the fence about it, rest assured—this ain’t just local acts and shenanigans. Sure, there’s plenty of that, too; however, the history of talent and performances rivals some of the most well-known musical gatherings around. With past names like Merle Haggard, Brandi Carlile, and Emmylou Harris, this festival knows how to pack a punch. And this year's no different—topping the setlist are Lukas Nelson, The Devil Makes Three, and Los Lobos; the list goes on with lots of other must-sees. Personally, I’ll be watching Bella White, singing along with “Not to Blame” at the top of my lungs. Beyond the music, there’s nonstop action with cultural events and competitions to keep everyone entertained: crosscut contests (two-person wood-sawing), horse-and-wagon driving, butchering clinics, trailer-backing training, artist & craftsman classes, and so much more.
In terms of where to stay, the event offers camping on the festival grounds for an additional fee of $45 per person; which comes with a few amenities; but be prepared to be mostly primitive. There are no RV hook-ups, but you can run a generator if you have one. There's also ice available for purchase and a place to shower. Additional camping information can be found here.
Otherwise, there are a handful of great options around the area to get your lodging fix with cabins, hotels, or camping with more amenities—whatever it might be. For camping off the festival grounds with a little more solitude, go for the Conestoga Campground. They've got RV hookups and everything else you need for a nice stay. Right in town, you can stay at the Edith Hotel and get the full White Sulphur Springs experience. The hotel was recently renovated and is ready to help you enjoy your next adventure.
If you’re wanting to take it up a notch, though, Grassy Mountain Ranch is your place. The brand-new Mountain View Lodge has top-of-the-line accommodations for folks looking to get away for a weekend in the beautiful Montana countryside (you can also rent out the entire place to host your own private event). Otherwise, there are a few camping options in town at White Sulphur Springs or at some Forest Service campgrounds a little ways out as well.
Aside from the festival, White Sulphur isn’t just some sleepy town—at least not in the summertime. Nope, during the warmer months, and even into the fall hunting season, it’s bustling with shops, breweries, bars, and restaurants. The Meagher County Chamber of Commerce helps to pull it all together. Learn about local happenings and be a part of what’s going on in the area by keeping up with them.
To get acquainted with the town, start by popping around and checking out a few storefronts. Stock up on gear and other goodies at the Twin Sisters Trading Company. They’ve got just about everything you could want or need, including sporting goods, ammunition, gifts, clothing, footwear, and booze. Then, keep on rolling through town, because there's lots more to see. Hoping to add some vintage Montana charm to your wardrobe? Pay a visit to Parberry—who knows, you might even find something to wear for the weekend. Next, a little pre-dinner drink at the Jawbone. They’ll whip you up a classic cocktail or something more modern. But heck, why leave when you can stick around for dinner and enjoy a flatbread or filet mignon? Finally, when it’s time to step into an authentic western-feeling bar & restaurant, Bar 47 is your place. It’s got good food, cold drinks, and a casino, of course, in true Montana style. But no matter where you eat (and before it’s all said and done), stop by the Spa Hot Springs for a dip. Whether you’re soaking away your cares or looking for some holistic healing, you’re likely to find what you’re looking for.
As one can expect, there’s plenty else to do around White Sulphur Springs beyond breaking in your dancing shoes at the festival. Here are a few suggestions:
Swimming in Lake Sutherlin is a great way to get off the festival grounds, and it’s just a short drive away. Splash around and cool off with a dip in the frigid mountain water. It hits the spot after a day in the hot, summer sun.
The nearby Lewis & Clark National Forest has loads of recreation opportunities. It's packed with trails all up and down the surrounding mountains. The Little Belts are just north and offer incredible views of the surrounding landscape. While you’re outside of town, you might as well swing by the Smith River at Camp Baker to pay a visit to Montana’s only permitted river (for overnight river trips, that is; day visitors can come and go as they please). Flows are likely to be low this time of year, but getting just a glimpse of this incredible river is guaranteed to be inspiring. Who knows, you might even find yourself putting in for a permit this winter, then launching your boat in the river next spring.
On your way back south (assuming you’re coming from the Bozone) take Hwy. 89 down through the Shields Valley and wet a line in the Shields River. The river is full of pocket-water this time of year, so you should be able to find where the fish are with a little poking around.
All right, folks, there you have it. A real Montana festival with all the bells and whistles. If last year was any indication, you’re sure to be blown away by the dedication and execution of the Red Ants Pants team, not to mention completely wooed by the charm of White Sulphur Springs. I’ll catch you there soon!
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