Lower Madison: Legends Never Die

Breaking down a classic southwest Montana trout stream.

The L-word is overused these days, but there aren’t many other terms that capture the iconic, beautiful, trout-filled waters of the lower Madison; it truly is legendary. Starting just below Ennis—the trout mecca of Montana—this section of river winds through tight canyons and sage-choked prairies until its confluence at the Missouri headwaters. Through it all, the lower Madison offers anglers some of the best scenery and fishing in the state.

An enviable trout population (true giants and exorbitant numbers of fish are caught on a daily basis) and abundant public access sites have made this hallowed section of river the stuff of legends for anglers worldwide. On these waters, every day has the potential to be epic.

On warm days in the winter and in early spring, when hatches of midges, blue-winged olives, and other small mayflies lure trout to the surface, the fishing can be on fire.

Access
Access begins in the Lee Metcalf Wilderness along a 40-mile section of water known as Bear Trap Canyon. The first boat launch and access point, located just downstream of the Ennis Dam, is a great place for anglers to get started. Although the rapids here are challenging, even for experienced oarsmen, the fishing can be incredible. Pods of trout congregate beneath the turbulent water as well as in the foamy pools and frothy channels. Those unwilling to risk a swim can find excellent fishing on the banks by hiking in.

The river slows down and widens after the canyon, meandering along Hwy. 84 between Warm Springs and Black’s Ford. Here you’ll find dozens of access points for both float and wade fishermen. After Greycliff, access for wade anglers becomes difficult, though float fishermen can take the river all the way to Three Forks.

Flows
Flows generally range between 1,500 and 3,500cfs, all of which is fishable for wading and boating alike. However, unexpected early-season spikes from spring snowmelt can push the flows past 4,000cfs, “blowing out” the river with sediment and debris for several days. Conversely, flows can become extremely low in late summer, resulting in high temperatures and full river closures until the river cools down in autumn.

When to Go
The lower Madison is as unpredictable as it is beautiful. While everchanging flows and recurring, seemingly hurricane-strength winds make this river a fickle mistress, there are some patterns worthy of note. On warm days in the winter and in early spring, when hatches of midges, blue-winged olives, and other small mayflies lure trout to the surface, the fishing can be on fire. There is consistent nymphing during these times as well.

In late spring and early summer, this section is one of the most popular fisheries in the state—and for good reason. Caddis, pale morning duns, and other insects emerge in droves, creating some of the best dry-fly fishing of the year. This can also be a fantastic time for streamer anglers to throw crayfish and baitfish patterns, as the warming waters cause excitement in bigger trout. Water temperatures will continue to rise through the summer, and by late June or early July, the river is often too hot to safely catch trout. Once temps go down in autumn, though, the river becomes a dynamite dry-fly and streamer fishery, with big fish becoming aggressive, attempting to fatten themselves before winter.

Fish
The lower Madison is home to a plethora of scrappy, resilient trout species that have adapted to survive the often unstable conditions. Cookie-cutter rainbows between ten and 15 inches make up most of the fish population. Brown trout are a close second, with specimens of 20 inches or more being commonplace. Additionally, anglers can also get shots at rising westslope cutthroat, frisky mountain whitefish, and even the occasional brook trout—especially when fishing around the mouths of various cold-water tributaries.

In terms of density, the highest concentrations of fish are found in the faster waters of Bear Trap Canyon. The largest fish, however, come to hand downstream of Black’s Ford. The most successful anglers are also the most adaptable, utilizing a wide array of fly patterns and rigs to fish the varying waters on this section.

Regs
“Hoot Owl” closures and restrictions can happen on short notice in the summer months, so check FWP’s website for closures and up-to-date regulations before venturing to the lower Madison.

Getting There
From Bozeman, take Hwy. 84 though Four Corners. From there, it’s a mere 20-minute drive to the river. The highway continues all the way to Bear Trap Canyon, and there are plenty of access points and hiking trails along the river.

Kubie Brown is an outdoor guide and writer living in southwest Montana.