Big Mountain, Small Towns
A long weekend exploring Lost Trail and the Bitteroot Valley.
It’s human nature: people want the good stuff to themselves, but don't want to share any. In part, that's what makes parts of Montana so special. The lack of crowds and locals-only mentality keeps certain places under wraps—the upper end of the Bitteroot Valley, to name one. The lack of crowds, wide open bowls, and plethora of powder stashes is definitely worth hoarding. However, at the end of the day, a great day of skiing is always better shared with friends. Here’s what the Valley, and the Lost Trail Ski area at the southern head of it are all about.
Lost Trail Ski Area, nestled along the Continental Divide on the Idaho-Montana border, hosts 1,800 skiable acres, a handful of lifts, and a couple tow ropes. The size is on par with many other classic, small-town Montana ski hills. What sets it apart, however, is the scenery, rugged terrain, and snowfall—300 inches of it, annually (on average). In addition to the demanding tree runs and technical cliff & chute areas, there are lots of long, flowing greens and blues that are fun for the whole family and skiers of all levels. Oh—did we mention the whole ski hill is only open Thursday through Sunday? If it’s a big snow week, all the powder piles up, untouched, for three days. Four-day weekend, anyone?
There are a few ways to get there from Bozeman. The shortest way is I-90 to I-15, then up the Big Hole Valley through the town of Wise River and on to the resort. With dry road conditions, it’s about a three hour drive. In nasty road conditions, don’t even think about it. You’ll be better off taking I-90 to Missoula then heading south up the Bitteroot. That’ll also allow you to stock up on beer for the weekend at Bitter Root Brewing in Hamilton. Maybe even grab a bite to eat, too.
Between Hamilton and the ski hill, there are a handful of lodging options. Of course, you could go with a mundane motel or expensive luxury ranch rental, but that’s not the best way to get a true feel for the tight-knit community and what it has to offer. Here are a couple cozy mountain lodges and cabins to consider:
Leaning Tree Lodge: This property used to be a bed and breakfast, so you know it’s set up with all the amenities you’ll need. And since it’s got six beds, you can extend the invite to a handful of friends. The cabin is located less than 30 minutes from Lost Trail and is surrounded by the Bitterroot and Sapphire mountains, so you’re in the heart of the action.
A Li’l Bit of Heaven: Closer to Lost Trail, with multiple cabin options available on the property, a Li’l Bit of Heaven is another fantastic choice. From their quaint “Homestead” cabin up to their fully-loaded “Lupine” and “Bitterroot” cabins, you’re sure to find one that fits the bill.
While Lost Trail is the hidden gem accessible from both these lodging options, there’s great cross-country skiing to be had as well. Check out the Chief Joseph Ski Trail System, on the top of the pass, directly across from Lost trail. Chief Joseph hosts 13 miles of trails for skis, snowshoes, fat bikes, and snowmobiles, all maintained by the Bitterroot Cross Country Ski Club. Just make sure to check trail restrictions when planning a route.
Additionally, there are a handful of backcountry skiing options within a stone’s throw. With our usual disclaimer (bring avy gear, check the forecast, etc.), here are a few places to start.
Anderson Mountain Road: Located just across the road from the Chief Joseph trails, this area is a local favorite. It offers ungroomed cross-country skiing along the scenic Continental Divide Trail and backcountry skiing in spacious glades that branch off to the south.
Saddle Mountain: Tucked behind Lost Trail, the Saddle Mountain region is most easily accessed from the ski resort or by staying in one of the nearby yurts. It’s backcountry terrain provides an appealing option for skiers seeking a remote adventure.
Lost Horse: Positioned between Hamilton and Darby, Lost Horse is a prime destination for snowmobile-assisted backcountry skiing. The journey to the skiable terrain involves a lengthy approach, ranging from five to 15 miles along groomed snowmobile trails, but the reward is well worth the effort.
Last but not least, the best way to experience a new place is by doing as the locals do. Charming roadside towns are sprinkled up and down the Bitterroot Valley, and each one has loads to offer when it comes to small-town hospitality. Sula, Connor, and Darby each have their own unique attractions. When you’re done skiing and looking to grab a bite and have a few drinks, look no further than the Two Rivers Bar & Casino in Connor. They’ve got great sandwiches and plenty of ways to wet your whistle. Be sure to bring in your lift ticket to enjoy two drinks for the price of one with their buy one, get one deal.
Go ahead and get lost in the Bitteroots. Just maybe not too lost—you’ve got work on Monday.
