Upper Yellowstone: Wild Water, Wild Fish

Fishing one of Montana's best trout streams.

The Yellowstone River, flowing north from Gardiner into Livingston, is among the last of the “wild” rivers. If one were to remove the accoutrements of twenty-first-century humanity, a picture of the upper Yellowstone would appear remarkably similar to some of the scenes in Andrew Garcia’s Tough Trip Through Paradise, 1878-1879. With minimal man-made obstructions and diversions, it’s no wonder the Yellowstone is one of the most productive, free-flowing trout fisheries in the Lower 48. To this day, the ‘Stone is mostly free to flow as all rivers were intended to.

Access
There are over 15 public access points along the upper Yellowstone. Several contain boat launches, and the distances between them allow boaters to choose from a myriad of float lengths. Half-day, full-day, and even multi-day overnighters can be enjoyed along this astoundingly scenic stretch of river.

Wade fishing from any of these access points can be very productive. Provided an angler can stay below the high-water mark, a brief walk can provide a relatively solitary experience. Pay attention to peak launch times when planning to wade fish this popular river. Fish upstream from boat ramps early in the morning, then work your way downstream as river traffic subsides.

Pre-runoff may be the best time of year on the upper Yellowstone. Big ugly nymphs, streamers, spinners, spoons, stickbaits, and of course, the always-reliable “Garden Hackle” are proven producers.

Flows
The Yellowstone is the longest undammed river in the contiguous United States. To say that the flows are unpredictable is a drastic understatement. Peak flows depend on seasonal snowpack and rainfall, with a historical average of 16,750cfs. In wet years with heavy spring rains and ample loads of snowpack, flows can be much more dramatic; it’s hard to forget the videos of homes—and the Carbella Bridge—being swept away during the 2022 flood, when a record-setting 54,000cfs was recorded at Corwin Springs before the river ripped out the gauge. Due to massive amounts of debris and sediment in the river, the Yellowstone is virtually unfishable at peak flows.

Typically, mid-June to mid-July brings flows around 10,000cfs. While navigation can be tricky for novice boaters at this level, the fishing can be productive so long as there’s two to three feet of visibility. If you’re planning a float, stick to the milder sections between Point of Rocks and Mallard’s Rest. Ideal flows for general floating and fishing are around 3,500 to 5,500cfs.

When to Go
Pre-runoff may be the best time of year on the upper Yellowstone. Big ugly nymphs, streamers, spinners, spoons, stickbaits, and of course, the always-reliable “Garden Hackle” are proven producers. However, if conditions happen to fall in the “Goldilocks” zone, blue-winged olives, March browns, and midges can start to pop, bringing fish to the surface. The Mother’s Day caddis hatch can also be outstandingly productive. Stick to a slightly larger-sized dry than the naturals you see fluttering on the water. Also, don’t neglect the more inconspicuous life-stage imitations of these bugs. If the fish aren’t hitting top water, try an emerger or pupa pattern as a dropper, or under a bobber.

Every once in a while, a great fortune befalls the angling community and the end of runoff magically syncs with the salmonfly hatch. The granddaddies of the Yellowstone’s stonefly trifecta, these mutant-like, black-and-orange insects bring large trout to the surface. The hatch tends to work its way upstream a few miles each day, and it doesn’t remain a secret for long.

Once the big bugs have been digested, dry-fly fishing will pick back up, with fish focusing on other stonefly species. Little yellow sallies and golden stones are both viable options. Other insects are also in the mix: pale morning duns, caddis, and numerous mayflies, to name a few.

The shorter, cooler days of autumn bring on the much-anticipated streamer season.

The mid-to-late-summer season brings dry, windy conditions that blow terrestrial insects onto the river’s surface. Ants, beetles, and grasshoppers are high in protein, and rarely will a hungry fish ignore a properly presented imitation. Cartoonish, goofy-looking foam imitations work great early on, but as the season wears on, smaller, more natural-looking patterns will produce more fish.

The shorter, cooler days of autumn bring on the much-anticipated streamer season. Hucking flashy streamers for browns is not a great way to rack up numbers, but it is possible to pick up a couple of trophies by stripping reasonably-sized sculpin or other baitfish patterns.

Row vs. Wade
Floating offers anglers the opportunity to fish a wide variety of productive water, cover, and holding areas. Wade fishing limits an angler’s options and takes an elevated amount of patience, but it can be equally if not more productive than floating. Some of the easiest sections to access are at the head of Yankee Jim Canyon and upstream toward Gardiner. Wading opportunities also get better as the season progresses and the water levels drop, allowing more access to gravel bars, bank areas, and runs that are inaccessible during periods of higher water.

Fish
The upper Yellowstone is full of rainbow trout, brown trout, the occasional brookie, and of course, the sacred natives: Yellowstone cutthroat and mountain whitefish. Cutthroat tend to be much more prolific above Yankee Jim, with the browns and rainbows becoming more common below the canyon.

Regs
As always, consult current FWP fishing regs, and carry a booklet when fishing any body of water. Regulations on the ’Stone are pretty straightforward, with the exception of the cutthroat: all cutties must be immediately released. In recent years, the mountain whitefish has faced serious threats. Abandon those outdated notions that these natives are trash fish and show the whiteys the same respect you would any other species.

Getting There
From Livingston, head south toward Gardiner and Yellowstone National Park. Hwy. 89 parallels the river along the entire route toward Gardiner. Access some of the less-pressured water via the scenic East River Rd., using one of several bridge crossings.

Kurt Dehmer owns Durty Kurty’s Guide Service in Bozeman.